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The Barbera grape is high in acid and low in tannin, making it a perfect red for pairing with food. (Photo from wikipedia.com)
 
 
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Someone’s at the door
Three wines make unexpected guests at Thanksgiving dinner

HOME > SOVO SCENE > DINING

Nov 14, 2008  |  By: DON HACKETT  | COMMENTS |   |  

DON’T LOOK NOW, but the holidays are here.

Despite your best intention to be prepared this year, it’s two weeks before Thanksgiving and you don’t have a plan. You need to pull it together quickly. Not to worry, we’ve been thinking about this since August.

This time every year, all of us tend to bring out the tried and true cast of characters. You might table the good Pinot Noirs from Burgundy and Oregon, or perhaps a Grenache from the Rhone Valley in France. These wines exhibit beautiful aromas and silky textures and pair wonderfully with traditional holiday fare.

But what to do this year to set your holiday table with something not so usual and expected — wines that you enjoy but don’t seem to drink often enough, that will complement the feast, drink beautifully, and maybe spark lively conversation?

You want this year to be special, but you don’t want to break the bank, either. Fortunately, there are hundreds of wines that will accomplish the task. And with a little help, yours will be the Thanksgiving soirée that everyone will be talking about.

BARBERA:

This is a grape that’s grown in several countries around the world, although Italy grows it the best, especially in the Piedmont region. The less expensive wines typically see less oak aging, which allows the wine to show its vibrant fruit, specifically aromas of cherries, raspberries and blackberries.

Barbera is naturally high in acid, which makes it a great wine to pair with food, and naturally low in tannin which makes it versatile and easy to drink. Expect to pay between $10 and $25, and look for labels that say Barbera d’Asti or Barbera d’Alba. Asti and Alba are towns in the Piedmont region known for producing excellent barberas.

TEMPRANILLO:

If you want to swim a little farther away from the shore, try wines from this Spanish grape. Because Tempranillo is grown all over Spain, it is important that you find one from a cooler growing climate, like the regions of Rioja and Navarra.

Cooler climates produce a lighter style of Tempranillo, a wine with soft aromas of black cherry, raspberry and currant, and notes of plum and tobacco. You can find good Spanish Tempranillo for between $10 and $25.

There are also more expensive versions, but they tend to see more aggressive oak treatments, which can mask some of the soft fruit. For Thanksgiving, serve a medium bodied wine with expressive aromas and flavors of red fruits, without too much oak influence.

Gewürztraminer:

This is another grape that is grown in several different countries, although we recommend the ones from the Alsace region in France. The wines made here are typically dryer and have very robust aromas of flowers and tropical fruits.

On the palate, gewürztraminers are lush with an exciting touch of spice. If you like wines with a bit more sweetness, Germany makes Gewürztraminer in that style, as does California, Oregon and Washington. You will pay between $15 and $30 for a nice bottle from the US and between $20 and $40 for the European bottles.

Don’t be afraid to spend more if you can. This is a wine that will repay you generously.

Riesling and Viognier:

If you want a bit of variety, these are two excellent choices. For dryer Riesling, look for Alsace, Austria or Germany. Australia and New York also make some excellent Riesling, although these may be a little more difficult to find.

For the fans of the sweeter wines, Germany makes Riesling in several different levels of sweetness, so you will find plenty to choose from. Washington also makes fantastic Riesling in a sweeter style.

Look to France for the Viognier, specifically the areas around the Rhone Valley, although you will find great Viognier from California, too. Viognier is similar to Chardonnay in weight and texture, so if you are a Chardonnay fan, you should like Viognier.





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