Will Atlanta diners appreciate well-executed authentic Mexican cuisine enough to pay a premium for it? By opening its newest location in Atlantic Station, Rosa Mexicano Restaurants is gambling that the answer is yes.
For 20 years, the company has operated successfully with three locations in New York and one in Washington, D.C. It expanded the concept south to Atlanta last month.
Guests who have preconceived notions of what it means to dine at a Mexican restaurant — or who are simply frugal — may shudder upon reviewing the menu at Rosa Mexicano. On a recent Wednesday evening, a pair of male diners bolted for the door with sticker shock.
One was overheard exclaiming to the other, "You could go broke in a hurry in that place!"
If the evening’s objective is to suck down pitchers of margaritas and fill up on free chips and salsa, head somewhere else. You won’t find either here. But if the goal is to savor Latin flavors, you may find yourself sighing with relief when that long nagging suspicion is finally confirmed: Mexican food can be so much more than a combo plate.
The staff is first to make a good impression. Cheery hosts greet guests promptly. Dining room servers are knowledgeable, personable and efficient. They deliver orders promptly with grace and whisk empty dishes away with equal aplomb, all while striking a pitch-perfect balance between being attentive and keeping a polite distance.
Design elements, including bright orange webbed chairs, white tablecloths and piñatas dotting the ceiling, convey a funky-luxurious mood. The centerpiece in the main dining room is an 18-foot high wall with 150 Acapulco diver figurines — yes, that’s 150 scantily clad plastic-sculpted men — with water cascading in ripples behind them.
The server suggests frozen pomegranate margaritas ($7.50). The pomegranate juice, white tequila, triple sec and lime juice mixture achieves an excellent balance of sweet and sour notes. Equally satisfying alternates include Sangría de Rosa Mexicano, a sweeter option made with red or white wine, and La Margarita Macha, a spicier one made with chile-infused tequila (both $8).
Guacamole en Molcajete ($12), the signature appetizer, is prepared to order tableside and served in a traditional lava-rock mortar. Beyond dramatic presentation, this facilitates customizing the concoction made of fresh tomatoes, onions, cilantro, jalapeño and avocados. The chunky mash is served with fresh corn tortilla chips, pasilla de Oaxaca salsa, salsa verde de habanero and fresh corn tortillas.
The sopa de tortilla ($7) arrives with an avocado slice and tortilla shreds decorating the center of the bowl. Expecting soup, the bone-dry bowl brings a moment of surprise. The broth is delivered in a separate vessel, poured over the condiments. Spice pleasantly builds intensity with each swallowed spoonful.
Tacos de Cochinita Pibil ($16) is slow-baked achiote-marinated pork served in a cast iron skillet with charro beans, roasted corn esquites, salsa chile de arbol and flour tortillas. The tender meat offers layered spicy flavors.
Pescado a las Brisas ($19), one of the day’s specials, is a revelation. Mahi-Mahi is slathered in a red spice sauce of nuanced flavors then topped with mango salsa. The dish could convert a non-fish lover into a fan.
Empanadas de Manzana ($6.50) are yummy, warm apple turnovers served with vanilla-mole swirl ice cream and spiced Mexican chocolate sauce.
But the Tres Leches de la Casa ($6.50), a meringue-covered three-milk cake with lime natilla and mango salsa, can satisfy the sweet tooth of even a die-hard chocoholic.
Rosa Mexicano serves lunch and dinner daily with brunch specials on Saturday and Sunday. A three-course dinner for two easily approaches $100. But if you can afford it or deserve a special splurge, it’s worth a visit.
