Bazzaar Urban Bar sits on the high-traffic corner of Peachtree Road and Ponce
de Leon Avenue, next to the Fox Theatre and across from the Georgian Terrace Hotel.
It’s a corner filled with theater goers, tourists and inhabitants of the
pricey condo buildings springing up in the area.
But despite its glamorous location and proximity to so many potential diners,
former venues in this particular space seemed to be damned to failure.
Enter owner Bill Kaelin and chef Richard Blais.
Blais’ creations are fresh, experimental and show real talent. Known
for plates with edible works of art, he provides a decidedly new experience
wherever he hangs his hat in Atlanta. Fresh off his journey with namesake restaurant
Blais, he took the reins in Bazzaar’s kitchen earlier this year.
And Kaelin is fresh from the trendy Eleven50 club, so transforming this space
into a hot spot for the sexy and sophisticated crowd seems a natural fit.
BAZZAAR IS a lush and vibrant vision of gold, red and brown. The bi-level space
provides a downstairs conducive to drinks and noshing as well as a modern upstairs
loft for dining.
The space is sensual and warm. A thumping of DJ-inspired music, artsy wall
installations and colored light fixtures bring to mind the kind of place you’d
expect to bump into Carrie, Samantha and the girls sipping Cosmos and launching
puns.
And the assortment of servers is perfectly suited to the space. Young, sexy
and energetic, they fit the mood perfectly.
Menu items of note include the Kobe beef tartare with Asian pear, an injected
egg and smoked chili ($6) and tuna carpaccio served with pickled ginger, soy
jellies and sesame crisps ($11). True to Blais’ form, both plates are
visually appealing as well as tasty.
A dish of chicken fried tofu ($8) is accompanied by inflated edamame, Asian
spices and pepper jelly.
I’m not a fan of tofu, but fry nearly anything
and it’s bound to be tasty. The spices, creamy-whipped edamame and jelly
make these skewered square bites really work.
And French toast ($6) for dessert? At Bazzaar, expect a little of the unexpected.
Small squares of french toast, topped with Canadian bacon and a side of truffle
ice cream with berry compote is as salty-sweet a goodness as I’ve ever
had.
My second visit to Bazzaar yields a fault that may have aided in the demise
of past enterprises in this space: inconsistency.
The drawback of being the Fox Theater’s closet bar and restaurant is
that the place is susceptible to whatever audience is attending whichever show
that night.
Tonight, it’s a classic rock crowd. Gone is the hip SoHo feel and young
clientele. Present is a congregation of cycle mamas and bandanna-wearing papas
sucking back bottled beer and smoking cigarettes.
As distracting as the bottom level is, the loft is free from most of the tailgate
feel below. The server arrives eager to please and is quick to announce menu
changes.
And some items that remain the same still come out different. A tomato salad
with pulled mozzarella and basil water ($7) has lost some of its original uniqueness
but is still tasty.
That French toast dessert has changed too, making it more pedestrian. The Canadian
bacon is substituted with small strips of pancetta, and the toasts are undercooked
and doughy.
But Bazzaar still has its merits.
Crispy calamari with spices, papaya and spearmint ($8) proves to be quite good,
as is prosciutto ravioli ($6), in which thin prosciutto is wrapped around whipped
parmesan and figs. Also available is a cheese plate ($12) with an unexpected
and sensually rich explorateur cheese.
Blais is extraordinarily experimental, but the lack of consistency puts me
on edge. Time will tell if the combined talent and experience of Blais and Kaelin
can keep Bazzaar from joining the long list of previous occupants.
The potential is there. Let’s hope the diners are, too.